EXCLUSIVE: Following Under Armour Exit, John Varvatos Now Creating Fabrics

Why It Matters

Varvatos’ move signals a growing trend of high‑profile designers entering the textile‑innovation space, while Under Armour’s financial strain underscores the urgency of brand reinvention in the sports apparel sector.

Key Takeaways

• Varvatos left Under Armour in Nov 2025, citing commute and family
• Under Armour reported $34 M Q4 loss, cutting SKUs 25% over two years
• Varvatos partners with Portuguese textile maker Riopele for a fabric collection
• Riopele by John Varvatos line to debut at Milano Unica in July
• Collaboration blends heritage, performance, sustainability to target North American market

Pulse Analysis

The departure of John Varvatos from Under Armour highlights a broader shift in the apparel industry, where design talent is increasingly gravitating toward fabric innovation rather than traditional brand leadership. Varvatos, known for his texture‑driven aesthetic, is leveraging his 30‑year relationship with Riopele—a historic Portuguese mill that exports over 98% of its output—to create a line that marries vintage craftsmanship with modern performance attributes. This move reflects a growing appetite among luxury and performance brands for differentiated materials that can command premium pricing and meet sustainability expectations.

Under Armour’s recent $34 million operating loss and aggressive SKU reduction illustrate the pressure on legacy sportswear companies to streamline portfolios and improve margins. The brand’s restructuring, led by founder‑CEO Kevin Plank, underscores the need for fresh product concepts that can revive growth. By partnering with a designer of Varvatos’s stature, Riopele gains a high‑visibility conduit into the North American market, while Under Armour watches a potential new source of innovative fabrics that could be integrated into future collections.

The Riopele by John Varvatos collection, set to debut at Milano Unica, exemplifies the convergence of heritage textile expertise and contemporary design sensibility. Featuring lightweight, easy‑care fabrics suitable for suits, outerwear, and casual wear, the line aims to satisfy consumers seeking both performance and style. As retailers increasingly prioritize sustainable, story‑driven materials, this collaboration could serve as a blueprint for other legacy manufacturers seeking relevance in a fast‑moving fashion ecosystem.