It Takes A Watchmaker Over A Day to Shape This Spring

Teddy Baldassarre
Teddy BaldassarreMar 18, 2026

Why It Matters

The watch demonstrates that ultra‑fine manual engineering can create market‑defining luxury pieces, reinforcing the value of heritage craftsmanship in an increasingly digital age.

Key Takeaways

  • Cylindrical hair spring requires a full day hand‑shaping
  • First COSC‑certified chronometer with 3‑D spring design ever
  • Two‑year R&D produced in‑house spring for improved isochronism
  • Movement demands over 100 hours of meticulous hand finishing
  • Retail price tops $150,000, reflecting extreme craftsmanship costs

Summary

The video spotlights the Ferdinand Berthod Chronomet FB 3SPC.1, a luxury timepiece that distinguishes itself as the first COSC‑certified chronometer to employ a cylindrical hair spring. Unlike conventional flat springs, this three‑dimensional coil is hand‑shaped over an entire day, reflecting a level of artisanal effort rarely seen in modern watchmaking.

The watch’s development required two years of intensive research and a week‑long regulation process before COSC certification. The cylindrical spring improves isochronism and reduces friction at the balance pivots, while the hand‑wound movement draws inspiration from historic marine chronometers designed by Ferdinand Berthod and his son Louie’s 1793 decimal pocket watch. Over 100 hours of hand finishing further enhance its aesthetic and functional precision.

The piece is not only a technical marvel but also a tribute to horological heritage, with the movement’s decoration echoing 18th‑century craftsmanship. Its rarity and labor‑intensive production justify a retail price north of $150,000, positioning it at the apex of the ultra‑luxury segment.

For collectors and the broader industry, the Chronomet underscores how extreme manual craftsmanship can drive differentiation, command premium pricing, and set new benchmarks for precision in high‑end watchmaking.

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