Wacoal America’s New CEO on Running a Brand Worn by Many, Known by Few

Why It Matters

Boosting brand visibility through stores could reverse Wacoal’s low consumer recognition and improve margins, while the Glamorise deal diversifies its product mix amid a shifting DTC landscape.

Key Takeaways

• Wacoal CEO aims to boost U.S. brand awareness via new stores
• Store count rose to eight, focusing on outlet malls
• Direct‑to‑consumer acquisition Lively shut down, merged into B. Tempt’d
• Recent purchase of Glamorise adds plus‑size segment and retailer mix
• CEO says stores beat costly online customer acquisition

Pulse Analysis

Wacoal America has been a quiet powerhouse in the U.S. intimates market for four decades, yet its name remains unfamiliar to many shoppers. The brand’s reliance on wholesale partners such as Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s has delivered steady sales, but limited direct consumer interaction hampers brand equity. Wheatley’s recent comments underscore a strategic pivot: leveraging a modest but growing footprint of outlet‑mall stores to create experiential touchpoints that can elevate awareness without the heavy spend of digital acquisition.

The shift comes after Wacoal’s mixed experience with direct‑to‑consumer (DTC) ventures. In 2018 the company bought the digitally native brand Lively for about $85 million, betting on social‑driven growth. However, Lively was wound down earlier this year, its traffic redirected to Wacoal’s B. Tempt’d line, signaling that the DTC model’s cost pressures outweighed its benefits for Wacoal. By contrast, the April acquisition of Glamorise Foundations—a legacy plus‑size intimates label—offers immediate revenue and a complementary retailer network, reducing overlap and enhancing profitability.

Industry observers see Wacoal’s dual approach as a blueprint for legacy apparel firms navigating the post‑pandemic retail landscape. Physical stores, especially in outlet settings, provide low‑cost brand exposure and data collection opportunities, while selective DTC acquisitions can fill niche gaps without overextending marketing budgets. If Wheatley’s store‑first strategy succeeds, it could prompt other established brands to re‑invest in brick‑and‑mortar as a brand‑building engine, reshaping the balance between wholesale, e‑commerce, and owned retail channels.