Nicolai Užnik Opens Full Gem V16 in Switzerland

Why It Matters

Užnik’s Full Gem push expands the elite V16 tier and underscores the rapid evolution of ultra‑hard bouldering, influencing grading standards and athlete training worldwide.

Key Takeaways

• First ascent of Full Gem V16 in Ticino.
• Sit‑start adds moves, raising difficulty from V15 to V16.
• Užnik’s third V16, after V17 Mount Doom achievement.
• Shows elite bouldering grade progression accelerating worldwide.
• Full Gem ascent video released on his YouTube channel.

Pulse Analysis

Full Gem’s debut in the limestone cliffs of Chironico represents a pivotal moment for the sport’s hardest boulders. By attaching a sit‑start to Kim Marschner’s Forgotten Gem, the route adds a sequence of powerful, technical moves that elevate the grade from V15 to V16. The climb’s aesthetic line—featuring razor‑thin crimps on a sheer face—highlights the evolving complexity of route design, where subtle variations can shift a problem into a new difficulty tier. For climbers tracking the frontier of difficulty, Full Gem offers a fresh benchmark that blends endurance, finger strength, and precise body positioning.

Užnik’s ascent continues a remarkable trajectory that has seen him collect three V16s and a V17 within a two‑year span. After flashing Forgotten Gem in early 2025, he leveraged that momentum to tackle the sit‑start, showcasing a strategic approach to incremental grade progression. His earlier V17, Mount Doom, cemented his place among an exclusive group of elite boulderers, and Full Gem reinforces his reputation for pioneering new hard lines. The climb also fuels ongoing discussions about grade verification, as peers like Jakob Schubert later confirmed Mount Doom’s V17 rating, underscoring the collaborative nature of high‑end grading.

Beyond individual accolades, Full Gem signals broader shifts in the climbing industry. New V16‑plus problems drive demand for specialized training tools, advanced grip technology, and targeted coaching programs. Media coverage, amplified by the YouTube video release, expands the sport’s visibility, attracting sponsors and inspiring the next generation of climbers to chase ever‑higher grades. As the V17 club grows, routes like Full Gem act as stepping stones toward the elusive V18 frontier, reshaping performance expectations and market dynamics across gyms, outdoor venues, and competitive formats.