After 22-Year Closure, Red River Gorge Climbers Restore Access to 80 Routes
The Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition has secured a three‑year renewable lease that reopens 80 climbing routes ranging from 5.8 to 5.14c after a 22‑year closure. The agreement, reached with new landowner Lori Morel, coincides with the coalition’s 30th anniversary and marks the culmination of decades of relationship‑building. While the crags will be climbable soon, the coalition plans a Fall 2026 full opening pending development work. A $60,000 fundraiser has been launched to finance the necessary upgrades.
Oriane Bertone Climbs V13 and V14 On the Same Day
On April 21, 12‑year‑old Oriane Bertone became the youngest climber ever to top a V14 boulder, sending Gecko Assis V14 and Khéops V13 in Île‑de‑France on the same day. The ascents marked the first female completions of both problems and...
A Look at Petzl’s New 2026 Grigri +
Petzl has launched the 2026 Grigri+, a belay device upgraded with an assisted mode that keeps the cam engaged for a more secure lock. The new model also adds an anti‑panic feature that moderates descent speed when the lowering lever...
Matt Segal Climbs 385-Metre 5.14 in Mexico in a Day
Matt Segal and Emily Harrington tackled La Sombra del Chamán, a 385‑metre, 5.14a multi‑pitch route in Mexico, achieving the first one‑day ascent and the second free ascent. Segal linked the original 14 pitches into nine, while Harrington switched to a...
Dean Potter Once BASE Jumped Off a Canadian Peak After Climbing a New Route
In 2011 Dean Potter and a four‑person team completed a new free climb on the west face of Mount Bute in British Columbia, grading the line at 5.11+. The ascent was captured for National Geographic’s documentary “The Man Who Can...
Climbers Tackle a Backcountry Wyoming 1,000-Foot 5.13
Josh Wharton, Michael Larson and Zack Smith completed a full alpine ascent of Mixed Signals, a 1,000‑foot, roughly 5.13c line on Wyoming’s Spider Web Wall. The route, originally bolted by Chris Hirsch in 2016 as a 5.12+ C1, demands eight...
The Case for Letting Kids Go Rock Climbing
Rock climbing advocates Jesse Godlington of Squamish Climbing Academy and Jason D. Martin of the American Alpine Institute argue that climbing is an ideal sport for children. An eight‑year‑old recently summited a 5.9 multipitch at a camp, illustrating kids' resilience....
Is Will Bosi’s Graffiti-Covered Project the Next V18?
World‑class boulderer Will Bosi has unveiled "Defying Graffiti," a line he calls his hardest project yet. The problem starts with a series of powerful crimps before easing into a moderate finish on a graffiti‑splashed boulder at Dumbarton Rock in Scotland....
Eva Hammelmüller Sends Her First 5.15a
On April 11, Austrian climber Eva Hammelmüller redpointed Adam Ondra’s Bombardino at 5.15a (9a+) in Arco, Italy, marking her first ascent at that elite grade. The 25‑year‑old has been on a prolific streak, adding two 5.14d routes earlier this year...
17-Year-Old Climbs an Adam Ondra 5.15a, Suggests 5.14d
On March 29, 17‑year‑old Italian climber Gianluca Vighetti sent Adam Ondra’s Bombardino in Arco on his second attempt and suggested a grade of 5.14d. The route, originally envisioned as a 5.15b by Ondra in 2022, has seen multiple repeats that...
New HBO Series Spotlights American Free Soloist Dean Potter in The Dark Wizard: A Review
HBO’s new four‑part documentary series “The Dark Wizard” launches with the episode “The Death Consequence,” chronicling legendary American free‑soloist Dean Potter. Directed by Peter Mortimer and Nick Rosen of Sender Films, the episode blends archival footage and interviews to showcase...
With Four V15s, Adam Ondra Upped His Flash Grade. Here’s How You Can, Too.
Adam Ondra has stunned the climbing world by flashing four V15 boulders, including a double‑day V15 on Celestite and Captain Nemo, and holds the hardest sport and trad flashes. Gripped Magazine consulted Paradigm Climbing coach Charlie Schreiber to extract actionable...
Zach Galla Makes Third Ascent of Shawn Raboutou’s Megatron V17 in Colorado
Zach Galla, a 25‑year‑old American climber, completed the third ascent of Megatron V17 in Eldorado Canyon, Colorado, marking his third climb at the V17 grade. The problem, first ascended by Shawn Raboutou in 2022, combines seven V15 moves with ten...
Nicolai Užnik Establishes New V16 in Austria
On April 2, Nicolai Užnik completed the first ascent of Bügelbrett, a new V16 (8C+) boulder in Maltatal, Austria. The line is a low‑start variation of the classic V14 Bügeleisen, adding roughly seven moves with an introductory V13 section. This achievement marks...
Sébastien Bouin Climbs New 5.15b with Le Champ Des Muses in France
French elite climber Sébastien Bouin achieved the first ascent of Le Champ des Muses, a 9b/5.15b route in Romeyer, Drôme, France. The project, known for its brutal endurance demands, was finally sent after a strong north wind helped Bouin push...