Adam Ondra Goes Ground-Up No-Chalk on a Saxony Sandstone 5.14b
Adam Ondra tackled the historic Saxon sandstone route Die Vertreibung der letzten Idealisten (5.14b) using a ground‑up, no‑chalk approach. The climb obeys Saxony’s strict rules that ban chalk, cams and rehearsal, allowing only slings, knots or ring‑bolts placed on lead. Ondra documented the experience in his new film “Saxon Sandstone Lines Were Calling Me,” which also explores the area’s climbing heritage and the unclimbed route Circus Maximus. The ascent highlights the region’s 150‑year tradition of bold, run‑out climbing.
Gripped Is Hiring a Climbing Web Writer
Gripped Publishing is hiring a half‑time digital content writer focused on climbing, working 20 hours per week. The role demands a climber with deep knowledge of the sport, athletes, events, and strong news‑writing abilities. Responsibilities include producing web articles, social...
Hamish McArthur Makes First Ascent of a Squamish ~V15
British climber Hamish McArthur has added a new first‑ascent, Tilde, in British Columbia’s Ashlu Valley, proposing an approximate grade of ~V15. He also repeated the notorious Zazen V15 in Squamish, a line that was upgraded after a key hold broke....
After 22-Year Closure, Red River Gorge Climbers Restore Access to 80 Routes
The Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition has secured a three‑year renewable lease that reopens 80 climbing routes ranging from 5.8 to 5.14c after a 22‑year closure. The agreement, reached with new landowner Lori Morel, coincides with the coalition’s 30th anniversary...
Oriane Bertone Climbs V13 and V14 On the Same Day
On April 21, 12‑year‑old Oriane Bertone became the youngest climber ever to top a V14 boulder, sending Gecko Assis V14 and Khéops V13 in Île‑de‑France on the same day. The ascents marked the first female completions of both problems and...
A Look at Petzl’s New 2026 Grigri +
Petzl has launched the 2026 Grigri+, a belay device upgraded with an assisted mode that keeps the cam engaged for a more secure lock. The new model also adds an anti‑panic feature that moderates descent speed when the lowering lever...
Matt Segal Climbs 385-Metre 5.14 in Mexico in a Day
Matt Segal and Emily Harrington tackled La Sombra del Chamán, a 385‑metre, 5.14a multi‑pitch route in Mexico, achieving the first one‑day ascent and the second free ascent. Segal linked the original 14 pitches into nine, while Harrington switched to a...
Dean Potter Once BASE Jumped Off a Canadian Peak After Climbing a New Route
In 2011 Dean Potter and a four‑person team completed a new free climb on the west face of Mount Bute in British Columbia, grading the line at 5.11+. The ascent was captured for National Geographic’s documentary “The Man Who Can...
Climbers Tackle a Backcountry Wyoming 1,000-Foot 5.13
Josh Wharton, Michael Larson and Zack Smith completed a full alpine ascent of Mixed Signals, a 1,000‑foot, roughly 5.13c line on Wyoming’s Spider Web Wall. The route, originally bolted by Chris Hirsch in 2016 as a 5.12+ C1, demands eight...
The Case for Letting Kids Go Rock Climbing
Rock climbing advocates Jesse Godlington of Squamish Climbing Academy and Jason D. Martin of the American Alpine Institute argue that climbing is an ideal sport for children. An eight‑year‑old recently summited a 5.9 multipitch at a camp, illustrating kids' resilience....
Is Will Bosi’s Graffiti-Covered Project the Next V18?
World‑class boulderer Will Bosi has unveiled "Defying Graffiti," a line he calls his hardest project yet. The problem starts with a series of powerful crimps before easing into a moderate finish on a graffiti‑splashed boulder at Dumbarton Rock in Scotland....
Eva Hammelmüller Sends Her First 5.15a
On April 11, Austrian climber Eva Hammelmüller redpointed Adam Ondra’s Bombardino at 5.15a (9a+) in Arco, Italy, marking her first ascent at that elite grade. The 25‑year‑old has been on a prolific streak, adding two 5.14d routes earlier this year...
17-Year-Old Climbs an Adam Ondra 5.15a, Suggests 5.14d
On March 29, 17‑year‑old Italian climber Gianluca Vighetti sent Adam Ondra’s Bombardino in Arco on his second attempt and suggested a grade of 5.14d. The route, originally envisioned as a 5.15b by Ondra in 2022, has seen multiple repeats that...
New HBO Series Spotlights American Free Soloist Dean Potter in The Dark Wizard: A Review
HBO’s new four‑part documentary series “The Dark Wizard” launches with the episode “The Death Consequence,” chronicling legendary American free‑soloist Dean Potter. Directed by Peter Mortimer and Nick Rosen of Sender Films, the episode blends archival footage and interviews to showcase...
With Four V15s, Adam Ondra Upped His Flash Grade. Here’s How You Can, Too.
Adam Ondra has stunned the climbing world by flashing four V15 boulders, including a double‑day V15 on Celestite and Captain Nemo, and holds the hardest sport and trad flashes. Gripped Magazine consulted Paradigm Climbing coach Charlie Schreiber to extract actionable...
Zach Galla Makes Third Ascent of Shawn Raboutou’s Megatron V17 in Colorado
Zach Galla, a 25‑year‑old American climber, completed the third ascent of Megatron V17 in Eldorado Canyon, Colorado, marking his third climb at the V17 grade. The problem, first ascended by Shawn Raboutou in 2022, combines seven V15 moves with ten...
Nicolai Užnik Establishes New V16 in Austria
On April 2, Nicolai Užnik completed the first ascent of Bügelbrett, a new V16 (8C+) boulder in Maltatal, Austria. The line is a low‑start variation of the classic V14 Bügeleisen, adding roughly seven moves with an introductory V13 section. This achievement marks...
Sébastien Bouin Climbs New 5.15b with Le Champ Des Muses in France
French elite climber Sébastien Bouin achieved the first ascent of Le Champ des Muses, a 9b/5.15b route in Romeyer, Drôme, France. The project, known for its brutal endurance demands, was finally sent after a strong north wind helped Bouin push...
This New 5.13 Trad Route Has a Potential 20-Metre Fall
Robbie Phillips, a leading all‑round climber, completed the first ascent of "Away With the Faeries" (E9 5.13b) on Carn Liath, Isle of Skye. The new trad route features a daunting 20‑metre runout section where a fall would result in significant air time....
La Sportiva Climb World Tour Heads to Paris
After kicking off in Turin, La Sportiva’s Climb World Tour moves to Paris on April 13‑14 before visiting five more European cities. The tour showcases the new Skwama Lite shoe, emphasizing comfort, edging and hooking performance. Events include climbing challenges,...
Jana Švecová Climbs Her Second V15 with Latest First Ascent
On March 28 Jana Švecová completed the first ascent of Tokyo Drift, a V15 (8C) boulder at Holstejn in Czechia, marking her second V15 FA. She overcame finger injuries and climbed in near‑freezing, windy conditions to lock in the beta and send...
Jakob Schubert Tries Duality of Man 5.15d, America’s Hardest Rock Climb
Jakob Schubert recently attempted Duality of Man, a 5.15d sport climb at Dry Canyon, Colorado, the first American route of that grade. The line was first ascended by Sean Bailey in 2025 after four years of work and limited shade....
Artemis II Astronaut Christina Koch Is a Climber (and Other Rock Climbing Links to Outer Space)
NASA astronaut Christina Koch, a veteran rock climber, says the sport taught her how to manage fear and focus—skills directly applicable to training for the International Space Station. Recent observations show climbing equipment crossing into aerospace: Ocun Dominator crash pads...
Pepa Šindel Climbs an Adam Ondra 5.14d
Czech prodigy Pepa Šindel sent Adam Ondra’s iconic Biologico (5.14d/9a) in Arco, Italy, on April 2, marking his thirteenth climb at that grade. The 18‑year‑old achieved the ascent on his first attempt, recalling the route’s bouldery start and a signature double‑dyno crux. Šindel,...
Squamish’s Stawamus Chief Backside Trail Reopens Following Rock Slide
BC Parks has reopened the Stawamus Chief backside trail after completing rock scaling and reclamation work that began in late February. The trail, the most popular descent for routes like the Buttress, Butt Light, and Angel’s Crest, was closed in...
“One of My Hardest Flashes to Date” – Jorge Díaz-Rullo Flashes 5.14c
Jorge Díaz‑Rullo flashed the iconic La Novena Puerta (5.14c/8c+) in Santa Linya, marking the first ever flash of the route since its 2005 debut. The ascent follows his first‑ascent of Café Colombia (5.15d) completed after 240 projection sessions. Díaz‑Rullo’s flash adds...
Burden of Dreams V17 Gets Sixth Ascent on Livestream
Japanese climber Makoto Yamauchi achieved the sixth ascent of Nalle Hukkataival’s Burden of Dreams, a V17 bouldering problem in Lappnor, Finland, on April 4. After months of work on a replica and a failed attempt in October, Yamauchi succeeded on...
Sungsu Lee Tops Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane V17
South Korean climber Sungsu Lee sent Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane V17 in Chironico, Switzerland, marking his second V17 ascent and making him only the tenth climber worldwide to top two V17 boulders. Alphane, first climbed in April 2022 and graded V17,...
Charles Albert Sends His Megaproject in Fontainebleau – It’s Likely At Least V17
French climber Charles Albert finally sent his eight‑year‑old barefoot boulder "Charlatan" in Fontainebleau, a line he believes merits at least a V17 grade. The problem features only three hand moves before a technical mantle, and Albert completed it despite a...
Kimber Cross Is the First Female Adaptive Ice Climber to Send Bridal Veil Falls WI5/6
Kimber Cross, a kindergarten teacher and sponsored athlete, completed the first documented female adaptive ascent of Bridal Veil Falls, a 365‑foot WI5‑6 ice line in Telluride, on March 16. She achieved the climb using a custom upper‑limb prosthetic equipped with...
Success on Famed Patagonia Route After 13 Days and Snowy Weather
Belen Prados, Caro North, Amelie Kuhne and Julia Cassou completed the first all‑female ascent of the iconic South African route on the east face of Patagonia’s Central Tower of Paine. Over 13 days they battled rockfall, snow, and high winds,...
Ainhize Belar Climbs Two 5.14+ Routes in Less Than a Week
Spanish climber Ainhize Belar, 20, sent two of the country’s hardest sport routes—La Reina Mora (5.14c/d) and Victimes del Futur (now consensus 5.14d)—within a single week in March 2024. Both lines, established by Ramón Julián, are benchmark endurance climbs that...
Chaehyun Seo Fractures Skull, Wins National Championships Two Weeks Later
On March 5, elite climber Chaehyun Seo suffered a fractured skull and concussion during training. Remarkably, she returned to competition just over two weeks later at the South Korean National Championships (March 20‑22) and captured gold medals in both Lead and Boulder....
Connor Herson Climbs Recovery Drink 5.14c Trad on Norway’s Profile Wall
British climber Connor Herson added the fourth ascent of the notorious trad line Recovery Drink on Norway’s Profile Wall, confirming its grade at 5.14c. The route, first bolted by Nico Favresse in 2013, is known for three distinct sections with...
Interview: After Bombé Bleu (5.15b), Erwan Legrand Shows Us How to Climb Barefoot
Erwan Legrand, 17, sent the legendary 35‑year‑old Bombé Bleu route at a 5.15b (9b) grade by climbing barefoot, a feat that eluded elite climbers in shoes. He argues the route would be only a half‑grade harder with footwear, citing the...
The Historic First Continuous Ascent of Salathé Wall in Yosemite Valley
Royal Robbins and Tom Frost completed the first continuous ascent of Yosemite’s Salathé Wall in October 1962, taking four days to summit the 3,300‑foot, 36‑pitch big wall. After earlier failed attempts plagued by extreme heat, hail, and equipment challenges, the...
10 Must-Try 5.11 Trad Climbs at The Gunks in New York
The Gunks, a world‑renowned trad climbing area near New Paltz, New York, is famed for its quartz conglomerate, steep roofs, and notoriously stiff grading that often feels a grade harder than elsewhere. For climbers breaking into the 5.11 range, the...
Spanish Climber Sends First 5.15b with The Full Journey
Spanish climber Enrique Beltrán Blasco sent The Full Journey in Margalef, marking his first 5.15b (9b) ascent. The route, bolted by Tom Bolger and first climbed by Alex Megos in 2022, was later extended to 5.15b with repeats by Jorge...
Jana Švecová Makes First Ascent of Tokyo Drift V15
Jana Švecová completed the first ascent of Tokyo Drift, a V15 (8C) boulder at the Holstejn crag in Czechia, after a failed attempt in 2025 and a series of finger injuries. She sent the problem in 5 °C, windy conditions, adjusting holds and...
The ChalkBlaster Combines Climbing Brush with a Blower to Clean Your Projects
The ChalkBlaster, created by Kent Eskildsen and Paul Ménager of Sweep Climbing, is the world’s first electric jet‑powered climbing brush that fuses a brush, blower, and phone charger into a single handheld tool. After an initial Kickstarter fell short, the...
Sachi Amma Climbs Chris Sharma’s Sleeping Lion 5.15b
Japanese climber Sachi Amma redpointed Chris Sharma’s Sleeping Lion 5.15b (9b) at Siurana’s El Pati crag on March 15, marking the route’s fifth ascent. The line, opened in 2023, features stacked double‑digit boulder problems with minimal rest and was originally graded 5.15c...
A Look at the New Metolius Climber’s Edge Hangboard
Metolius has launched the Climber’s Edge Training Board, a complete redesign of its Wood Grips line that shifts emphasis from pockets to a comprehensive edge suite. The 23.6‑inch wide, 6.3‑inch tall board features six edge widths (7.5 mm‑20 mm), a 40 mm round...
A New 5.11c, 5.12d and 5.13b/c Developed Atop Squamish’s Iconic Cheakamus River
The Enterprise, a newly opened zone above Squamish’s Cheakamus River, introduces three high‑quality sport routes: Eugenics War (5.11c), Wrath of Khan (5.12d) and Kling On (5.13b/c). Developed by local guides Evan Beatty and Keenan Gibson between July 2024 and June...
Michaela Kiersch Climbs an Adam Ondra 5.14c
Michaela Kiersch successfully repeated the iconic Pungitopo (5.14c) in Arco, Italy, a route first ascended by Adam Ondra in 2022. The climb, praised for its aesthetic line and technical traverses, has attracted elite climbers such as Gio Placci and Eva Hammelmüller. Kiersch’s repeat...
New Technical Alpine Mixed Climb on Famous Alps Peak
Italian alpinists Matteo Della Bordella, Giacomo Mauri and Mirco Grasso completed the first ascent of Mutante, a 520‑metre mixed line on the south face of the Petites Jorasses in the French Alps. They graded the route M8 6c AI4+, noting...
Stefano Ghisolfi Climbs World’s First V15
Stefano Ghisolfi has become the latest elite climber to tick Dreamtime, the world’s first V15 boulder problem, in Ticino, Switzerland. The route, originally graded V15 in 2000, was later downgraded to V14 before a 2009 hold break restored its V15...
Sam Richard Climbing Chris Sharma’s Famous Deep Water Solo Es Pontas 5.15a
American climber Sam Richard completed the iconic deep‑water solo Es Pontas (5.15a) in Mallorca, replicating Chris Sharma’s 2006 first ascent. The 20‑meter limestone arch, known for its massive dyno crux, required 12 sessions and six successful jumps before Richard sent...
A Dog Used Her Claws Like Crampons in Ascent of Mount Robson in the 1970s
In August 1972, alpinist Warren Blesser and his Siberian husky Talkeetna tackled Mount Robson’s Kain Face. Talkeetna famously leapt across crevasses and used her claws as makeshift crampons, likely becoming the first dog to reach Canada’s highest summit. Blesser logged the...
Leo Cea Cruises Era Vella 5.14d at 11 Years Old
In November 2024, 11‑year‑old Chilean prodigy Leo Cea sent the iconic Era Vella (5.14d) in Margalef, marking his third ascent of that grade before his twelfth birthday. The repeat was captured on Alex Megos’ YouTube channel, adding another high‑profile video to...
The 31-Pitch 1970s Yosemite Route Opened by Canadians
In 1972 Canadian climbers Hugh Burton and Steve Sutton completed the first ascent of Magic Mushroom, a 31‑pitch, Grade VI 5.10 A4 route on El Capitan. After a storm‑forced retreat the previous year, they returned equipped with a pioneering nylon wall...