China’s Hidden Chilli Capital, and the Birthplace of the Chilli Crisp

South China Morning Post (SCMP)
South China Morning Post (SCMP)Apr 25, 2026

Why It Matters

Guizhou’s chili sector turns a once‑necessary survival ingredient into a lucrative export, driving regional development and influencing worldwide taste trends.

Key Takeaways

  • Guizhou’s Zhenyi market handles 380,000 tonnes of chilies annually.
  • Chili crisp brand Lao Gan Ma sources its peppers from Guizhou.
  • Historically, chilies replaced scarce salt, shaping Guizhou’s cuisine.
  • Local families ferment chilies with baijiu, creating zhao la jiao.
  • Guizhou’s chili industry now exports to 80+ countries, boosting economy.

Summary

The video spotlights Zhenyi, a bustling chili exchange in Guizhou province, the unlikely heart of China’s chili production. It traces how the region, long considered poor and remote, supplies the famed Lao Gan Ma chili crisp and ships roughly 380,000 tonnes of dried chilies to over 80 countries each year.

Guizhou’s love affair with chilies began in the Qing dynasty when salt was scarce and the mountainous terrain limited other seasonings. Residents turned to the fiery plant, developing diverse products—from dry chili powders to fermented “zhao la jiao” made with baijiu, salt and pine‑ash. Families still pound and char chilies at home, creating smoky, umami‑rich condiments that define local meals.

Chef‑entrepreneur Chen Yao illustrates the modern boom: he runs a farm, a factory, and a restaurant chain centered on fermented chilies. Visitors see traditional fire pits, pine‑needle ash, and the meticulous 180‑day fermentation that yields a bright‑red, aromatic paste praised for its floral notes and subtle heat.

The rise of Guizhou’s chili industry transforms a historic survival tactic into a global culinary brand, generating export revenue and reshaping the province’s economic outlook while preserving a distinctive food culture.

Original Description

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Lao Gan Ma may be a global social media sensation, but its roots lie deep in Guizhou – the historical birthplace of China’s chilli culture. Now the nation's top chilli producer, the province continues to push culinary boundaries. In this episode of Eat Drink Asia, SCMP reporter Lisa Cam explores Guizhou’s massive chilli exchange and discovers some radical local traditions, from mixing charred peppers with wood ash to fermenting spice inside repurposed bomb shelters.
0:00 China's chilli capital
1:35 Why Guizhou loves spice
3:31 Types of chilli
4:58 Burnt chilli
6:32 Bomb shelter chilli
9:09 Fermented chilli
11:00 Star of the cuisine
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