Food

Making Mama’s Kotleti with Polina Chesnakova

J. Kenji López‑Alt
J. Kenji López‑Alt•Mar 18, 2026

Why It Matters

The interview underscores how culinary storytelling preserves immigrant heritage and creates viable business opportunities for diaspora chefs in a globally connected food market.

Key Takeaways

  • •Immigrant food preserves identity amid geopolitical upheaval and displacement
  • •Post‑Soviet cookbook redefines diaspora cuisine beyond a single label
  • •Recipes are recorded by eye, emphasizing intuition over strict measurements
  • •Kotleti with buckwheat serves as nostalgic comfort for Eastern Europeans
  • •Digital collaboration with family preserves culinary heritage across continents

Summary

In this episode, host Kenji sits down with cookbook author Polina Chesnakova to discuss her latest title, a post‑Soviet culinary memoir that blends Russian, Georgian and broader Eastern‑European flavors. The conversation pivots around preparing her mother’s classic kotleti—breaded meat patties—served with buckwheat, a dish that epitomizes comfort food for many immigrants from the region.

Chesnakova explains how the Russia‑Ukraine invasion forced her to rethink labeling; she now uses the term “postsviet” to acknowledge a diaspora that refuses a monolithic Soviet identity. The book captures recipes taught by eye and feel, from ajika chili paste to sour plum kimali, and highlights the improvisational nature of home cooking—adjusting meat, herbs, and spices based on what’s on hand.

Memorable moments include her claim that “recipes are a time capsule,” the anecdote about long‑distance FaceTime cooking sessions with her mother, and the description of unrefined sunflower oil as “sunshine in a bottle.” These details illustrate how food serves as a conduit for memory, displacement narratives, and cultural continuity.

The broader implication is clear: preserving and commercializing authentic diaspora cuisine meets a growing appetite for heritage foods while offering immigrant entrepreneurs a platform to share stories and sustain community identity. Chesnakova’s approach demonstrates that adaptable, intuition‑driven recipes can bridge generations and markets alike.

Original Description

Watch this video ad-free and get the full recipe over on Patreon: https://frienji.kenjilopezalt.com/posts/making-mamas-153370887
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Polina Chesnakova, author of “Chesnok: Cooking from My Corner of the Diaspora" stopped by my place to make her mother’s kotleti recipe while we discussed Eastern European cuisine and its evolving identity in a post-Soviet era. Head to my Patreon to see the full recipe or grab a copy of Polina's full book: https://booklarder.com/products/chesnok-cooking-from-my-corner-of-the-diaspora-recipes-from-eastern-europe-the-caucasus-and-central-asia
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CREDITS
Shot By: Kenji López-Alt and Lena Davidson
Edited By: David Zimmermann and David Hudson
Produced By: Kenji López-Alt and Lena Davidson

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