One of My Favorite Bites of Food in the World | Eric Kim | NYT Cooking
Why It Matters
It shows how a timed, technique‑focused approach can bring authentic Korean flavors to home kitchens, preserving culinary heritage while meeting modern convenience.
Key Takeaways
- •Mom’s kimchi jjigae can be made in 45 minutes
- •Blanch ribs with ginger to remove gaminess before stewing
- •Thinly sliced onion adds essential sweet umami backbone
- •Butter and gochugaru create a bright, spicy oil base
- •Maesil chung adds unique tart fruitiness as secret ingredient
Summary
Eric Kim, NYT Cooking columnist, shares his mother’s kimchi jjigae with baby‑back ribs, a dish he calls one of his favorite bites, prepared in under 45 minutes for a weeknight meal.
He walks through each step—blanching ribs with ginger to strip gaminess, rinsing, then building the broth with butter, gochugaru, kimchi, onions, garlic, and a splash of fish sauce. He emphasizes precise onion slicing for sweet umami, the creation of a gochugaru‑infused butter for a bright red sheen, and the addition of maesil chung, a plum‑based syrup, as his mom’s secret tart note.
Kim repeatedly notes his mother’s precise, confident cooking style, saying “my food will always be an evolution of hers.” He jokes about skimming broth for shortbread cookies, but stresses that each adjustment—salt, covering the pot, timing—sculpts flavor. The final garnish of watercress adds visual contrast and freshness.
The recipe demonstrates that authentic Korean stew can be achieved quickly at home, encouraging readers to honor family traditions while adapting to modern schedules. It also highlights how small technique tweaks—blanching, butter‑oil base, secret ingredients—elevate a humble stew to restaurant quality.
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