This D.C. Duo Is Flipping Indian Cuisine on Its Head

Why It Matters

The restaurants showcase how fusion and hyper‑local sourcing can revitalize a historic neighborhood, setting a blueprint for immigrant‑led culinary innovation in U.S. cities.

Key Takeaways

• Daru evolved from cocktail bar to neighborhood Indian‑inspired restaurant.
• Tapori focuses on street‑food dishes like momos, dosa, and buckwheat wraps.
• Chef Sesh blends Nepali heritage with Indian flavors using Sichuan peppercorns.
• Beverage director Dante creates achar‑infused martinis and pantry‑sourced cocktails.
• H Street’s revitalization supports small‑owner concepts and South Asian culinary growth.

Summary

Menu Talk’s latest episode spotlights Daru and Tapori, two H‑Street establishments run by chef Sesh Sundas and beverage director Dante Data. Daru opened in 2021 as a cocktail bar named after the Hindi word for moonshine, but quickly pivoted to a family‑style Indian‑inspired menu. A year later they launched Tapori, a vibrant street‑food concept featuring momos, buckwheat‑wrapped dumplings, and classic South Indian dosa. The duo explains how they curate the menu: Sesh draws on his Nepali upbringing and the diverse regional cuisines of the Indian subcontinent, using ingredients like Nepal‑sourced teor peppercorns for a floral, numbing bite. Dante mirrors that pantry‑first philosophy in drinks, most famously an achar‑infused martini that combines pickled mango, Sichuan pepper, and a side of purple‑pickled cauliflower. A memorable moment comes when Dante describes the martini’s preparation—steeping achar spices in white‑wine vinegar, adding MSG, and serving it with a cauliflower garnish that diners can either sip or snack on. Sesh also highlights the daily‑made buckwheat wrap and the meticulous 14‑hour fermentation process behind their dosa batter, underscoring a commitment to authenticity and craft. Their story illustrates how immigrant chefs can reinterpret traditional flavors while anchoring themselves in a revitalizing H‑Street community. The success of Daru and Tapori signals growing demand for nuanced South Asian fare and demonstrates that small, owner‑operated venues can thrive alongside larger chains in a post‑pandemic urban landscape.

Original Description

Discover how chefs Suresh Sundas and Dante Datta are bringing a fresh, creative twist to Indian food and drinks in Washington, D.C.’s H Street neighborhood.

From inventive dishes like paneer pesto tikka to cocktails infused with Indian spices and pickling flavors, their restaurants blend tradition with bold experimentation.

You’ll also get a look at their second concept, Tapori, where lively street food from across India and Nepal meets fun, tropical-inspired drinks and a high-energy dining experience.

If you love food innovation, global flavors, or just discovering cool restaurant concepts, this story is for you.

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