The Food Institute

Food Media Has Been Gatekeeping Global Cuisines — NYT's Eric Kim Explains

In a recent interview, New York Times food writer Eric Kim argues that food media has long acted as a gatekeeper, limiting the visibility of global cuisines while a growing consumer appetite for authentic ethnic flavors is reshaping the market. Kim notes that today’s diners are eager to add new ingredients to their pantries, provided they are presented as delicious and accessible. He points to the rapid adoption of niche items—such as the Japanese seven‑spice blend shashimi tokarashi—once media outlets feature them, prompting grocery chains to stock the products. He recalls weekly sushi nights with his mother that sparked his curiosity, and cites examples like Alison Roman’s influence on buttermilk demand to illustrate how a single column can drive nationwide inventory changes. Kim emphasizes that education and storytelling are the catalysts that turn curiosity into purchase behavior. The shift has profound implications for CPG manufacturers and food‑service operators: brands that can secure media placement stand to gain shelf space, while retailers must broaden assortments to meet demand. Ultimately, dismantling the historic white‑centric narrative opens revenue streams and diversifies the American food landscape.