The Pine Cone Choker by Elsa Schiaparelli 👁️ Surrealist Vintage Jewellery ✨

Why It Matters

Schiaparelli’s pine‑cone choker demonstrates the commercial power of avant‑garde jewelry, informing modern luxury brands about the lasting appeal of bold, art‑driven designs.

Key Takeaways

• Elsa Schiaparelli's 1939 pine‑cone choker blends surrealism and couture
• Designed for summer “bustle” collection, paired with dramatic scoop necks
• Crafted by French jeweler Jean Schlumber, pine cones are hollow and lightweight
• Featured on avant‑garde actress Ruth Ford, now housed at V&A
• Schiaparelli favored unexpected natural motifs over conventional floral designs

Summary

The video spotlights Elsa Schiaparelli’s iconic pine‑cone choker, unveiled in her summer 1939 “bustle” collection. The surrealist piece combines purple velvet ribbons with dangling gold‑plated pine cones, intended to accentuate a low‑cut, scoop‑neck silhouette.

Although the pine cones appear massive, they are hollow, making the necklace surprisingly light. Crafted by French jeweler Jean Schlumber, the hollow metal shells catch and refract light, creating a dazzling effect that aligns with Schiaparelli’s theatrical aesthetic. The design reflects her penchant for natural motifs rendered in unexpected forms.

The choker was famously worn by avant‑garde actress and model Ruth Ford, underscoring its appeal to daring, elite clientele. Ford later donated the piece, along with other radical Schiaparelli ensembles such as the “tears” dress and skeleton costume, to the Victoria and Albert Museum, preserving its legacy.

The pine‑cone choker exemplifies how surrealism infiltrated high fashion, influencing contemporary designers who seek to blend art with wearable statements. Its museum placement highlights the enduring market for vintage couture and the commercial value of historically significant accessories.

Original Description

Would you wear pinecones as jewellery? This extraordinary pinecone necklace by Elsa Schiaparelli was designed in 1939 as part of her Summer 1939 Bustle Collection. Known for her surrealist, witty and unconventional fashion, Schiaparelli often turned unexpected objects into bold and playful accessories.

Made from purple velvet ribbon and gilt metal pinecones, this necklace was created by celebrated jeweller Jean Schlumberger and is an instantly recognisable piece of fashion history.

🦞 See the Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art exhibition at V&A South Kensington from 28 March – 8 November 2026. This exhibition has been created in collaboration with Schiaparelli. https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/schiaparelli

👁️ See more Schiaparelli pieces on the V&A website: https://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/elsa-schiaparelli

✨ Take a look at the choker even closer: https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O136994/the-pagan-collection-choker-elsa-schiaparelli/

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